EARLY RACING IN HONGKONG
849
With the approach of the Annual Race Meeting, the subject of this sport of kings becomes topical. Something of the history of racing in Hongkong has been given in a previous article of this series (see 18-9-33), but it is not possible to visualise what the race-course at Happy Valley was like in the old days without some pictorial record. Happily, I am able to-day to reproduce an old print which has come into my possession, that shows the course as it appeared in 1858. It will be noted that the Monument was already in position, and that no road had yet been constructed right round the Valley. On the side where the cemeteries are, the Jockey Club buildings were at that time backed by a mere pathway. The print also shows only a single circle of rails: spectators lined the track (and probably encroached occasionally) much as they crowd to-day along the touch line at football matches.
For a vivid account of racing in Hongkong at the period of this old picture, we can turn to the London papers, one of which, the Illustrated London News, had a special correspondent out here to report the war with China in the late Fifties. Writing on February 28, 1858, from Hongkong, he thus describes the Annual Meeting of seventy-seven years ago:
"Three days out of the year the great 'joss' to whom British and Chinese alike bend the knee is neglected — allude to the divinity of China, the almighty collar.' The Celestials actually cease buying and selling during their New Year; and Colonel John Bull emerges from behind his counter to enjoy the races, and to rest from his toils. I was tempted to stay and see the said sport, and accordingly started on the morning of the 18th of February, and a more magnificent day it is not possible to conceive: not a cloud in the pure sky above us. A gentle breeze moderating the ardour of the mid-day sun, made the atmosphere delicious. At 11 a.m. we arrived at the race-course, in the 'Happy Valley' — a lovely spot, indeed, situated about a mile and a half from Victoria, and the last resting place of those who die here. The burial-ground is at the foot of one of the lofty grassy hills which form this valley; there are, in fact, three places of interment — one for the Protestants, one for the Roman Catholics and one for the Parsees. Just opposite to these were the stands and stables; whilst the flat plain was studded with all manner of nations — English, American, French, Malays, East Indians, Manilla Indians, Blue-jackets, marines and Celestials. Umbrellas were in such abundance that, seen from a height, you fancied the place was filled with animated mushrooms, or from their various colours, rather toadstools.
"The races began in the afternoon and afforded great pleasure. The Chinese are as much excited as the English, and bet with much ardour.
"The road presented rather a contrast to the Derby, but if the carriages were not numerous the chairs were; the Celestial fair ones came out in full force, dressed with great neatness and taste. The crowd differed from a race one in England in a great many respects, but first and foremost in the total absence of intoxication and in its quiet conduct.
EARLY RACING IN HONGKONG
849
With the approach of the Annual Race Meeting, the subject of this sport of kings becomes topical. Something of the history of racing in Hongkong has been given in a previous article of this series (see 18-9-33), but it is not possible to visualise what the race-course at Happy Valley was like in the old days without some pictorial record. Happily, I am able to-day to reproduce an old print which has come into my possession, that shows the course as it appeared in 1858. It will be noted that the Monument was already in position, and that no road had yet been constructed right round the Valley. On the side where the cemeteries are, the Jockey Club buildings were at that time backed by a mere pathway. The print also shows only a single circle of rails: spectators lined the track (and probably encroached occasionally) much as they crowd to-day along the touch line at football matches.
For a vivid account of racing in Hongkong at the period
of this old picture, we can turn to the London papers, one of which, the Illustrated London News, had a special correspondent out here to report the war with China in the late Fifties. Writ- ing on February 28, 1858, from Hongkong, he thus describes the Annual Meeting of seventy-seven years ago:
t
I
"Three days out of the year the great 'joss' to whom British and Chinese alike bend the knee is neglected allude to the divinity of China, the almight collar.' The Celestials actually cease buying and selling during their New Year; and Colonel John Bull emerges from behind his counter to enjoy the races, and to rest from his toils. I was tempted to stay and see the said sport, and accordingly started on the morning of the 18th. of February, and a more magnificent day it is not possible to conceive: not a cloud in the pure sky above us. A gentle breeze moderating t heardour of the mid-day sun, made the atmosphere delicious. At 11 a.m. we arrived at the race-course, in the 'Happy Valley - a lovely spot, indeed, situated about a mile and a half from Victoria, and the last rest- ing place of those who die here. The burial-ground in at the foot of one of the lofty grassy hills which form this valley; there are, in fact, three places of interment - one for the Protestants, one for the Roman Catholics and one for the Parsees. Just opposite to these were the stands and stables; whilst the flat plain was studded with all manner of nations English American, French, Malays, East Indians, Manilla, Indians, 3Blue- jackets, marines and Celestials. Umbrellas were in such abundance that, seen from a height, you fancied the place was filled with animated mushrooms, or from their various colours, rather toadstools.
"The races began in the afternoon and afforded great pleasure. The Chinese are as much excited as the English, and bet with much ardour.
"The road presented rather a contrast to the Derby, but if the carriages were not numerous the chairs were;' the Celestiul fair ones came out in full force, dressed with great neatness and taste. The crowd differed from a race one in England in a great many respects, but first and foremost in the total absence of intoxications and in its quiet conduct.
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